Rothko at Sculptureum

Three gorgeous but completely unexpected golden chandeliers hang in the vestibule of Rothko’s kitchen. Diners seated on the outside deck can spy them; it’s a testament to the eccentricity of this relative newcomer in the rural countryside that nothing is quite as it seems.

Rothko is in Matakana, one of Auckland’s newest day-out destinations. On a rustic property an hour north of Auckland, lawyers Anthony and Sandra Grant have spent almost 10 years and millions of dollars to create their project, Sculptureum. It is a beautifully curated collection of glass art, paintings and sculpture set in tailored gardens and surrounded by their vineyard where they grow chardonnay and red grapes.

At Rothko the chicken is deboned, wrapped in medallions then roasted. It’s a luscious proposition, served on smoked pumpkin puree and topped with crisped sage and kale leaves.

This wholesome, thoughtful dish was typical of everything we ate, and our slow-cooked mutton shank served with baked quince was total pleasure too. It came with freekeh — a grain that is fun to say and lovely to eat, and this one seemed to have reached almost risotto-level in the amount of flavour the chef had managed to magic into it.