On the face of it, Madam Woo might seem a tad too clever: a Hamilton-born three time Michelin-star chef (awarded in 2006 when Emett oversaw Gordon Ramsay's New York and West Hollywood restaurants) serving Malaysian street food.
It's one of those things that shouldn't work but does, like Kanye, Rihanna and Paul McCartney collaborating.
And four years in (the first Woo opened in Queenstown in 2013, a Christchurch one opens soon) Madam's no less alluring.
The key to Madam Woo's success is that Josh Emett is smart enough to keep things simple. He's clearly a big fan of the cuisine and knows what works and doesn't mess with it; fresh ingredients, bright flavours, a busy, casual ambience.
Its key note is Malaysian but there's Chinese, Portuguese and Indian influences at play too - oh, and icecream from Wanaka's Pure NZ.
This is a long way from his fine-dining pedigree but the food retains a Michelinesque quality-control - Emett was at the pass throughout service, checking each dish.